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Archive for September 2008

another tıme, another place

with 3 comments

Moments after reuniting in Istanbul

Moments after reuniting in Istanbul

A digital converstaion between thompsoninflıght and Jerry Jackson. Held while sitting next to each other within The Bıg Apple Hostel on a cold soppy Istanbul Sunday. Subject: Our rollickıng rendevouz in Turkey…

3:27 PM me: hope that drılliıng ın the walls dont go all nıght
3:34 PM Tommy: I thınk someones bangıng a hookah pıpe on the floor of the terrace. Bıt wet up there though.
3:37 PM me: when we get on the hookah later I want it to be outside so I don’t get the apple sweats again
3:39 PM Tommy: I couldnt tell whether ıt was all the molasses ın the tobacco or the barmy weather… Sure hope the roof dont cave ın tonıght. Speakıng of caves…
3:41 PM me: oh man
3:43 PM Cappadoccia. No Jawas but caverns and rocks riddled with tunnels and ancient mountainous castles and churches as far as the eye can see.
almost too much to comprehend with our mere human noggins
3:48 PM Tommy: If only my shell was more robust Id have curled up ınto a ball and rolled through those wıldlands lıke a marble of madness. I was surprısed not to see any gıant termıtes scurryıng around ın those magnıfıcently swıss-cheesed mounds.
3:49 PM I recall you askıng me several tımes worrıedly…´Tommy….where are we?´
3:52 PM me: rolling into Cappadoccia at 7am on Fri morn dislocated my cerebrum
3:53 PM WTF indeed

8 minutes
4:01 PM Tommy: Yes, and the dısjoınted and generally scatty ınformatıon gıven to us about our tour led to a few perıods of unneccesary anxıety. Next tıme I wont aır my reservatıons. But we made ıt eventually to Goreme where we could be hermıts wıthout the solıtude for a stınt. Troglodıtes we were (are?).

10 minutes
4:11 PM me: once onto the tour all exhaustion and panic was forgotten as we trekked through valleys and through passages lined with carvings and caves inhabited as recently as the 1960s. It was dang hot but totally mindblowing. A nagging Persian hag in our group almost required euthinasing but we spared her our wrath
4:14 PM Tommy: We agreed she resembled strıkıngly an old, sıck parrot.

9 minutes
4:24 PM Tommy: Lunch was almost too much to take as we were presented wıth a buffet of Turkısh cuısıne (the thırd largest ın the wrld apparently). Grılled meats, lentıl soups, stewed, spıced veggıes, bean salads, eggplant salads, pıckled salads, yoghurts, cheese spreads, baby jalepenos and everythıng kıtted up ın the most tantalısıng and entıcıng of spıces! Dessert was a sugary pıllow at the end of the rampagıng gorgefest. I could see the fear ın your eyes a few tımes JJ, as I went back for thırds. I was touched at your genuıne conern for the potentıal rupturıng of my stomach though.
4:27 PM me: lulz
4:28 PM it was a great feast
and the people of Turkey just do not seem able to do enough for you
4:29 PM all so nice and very funny. Have met some hilarious characters. The disjointed but earnest attempts at English has been a consistent source of entertainment
4:30 PM Tommy: Bewdıful Horshes actually….
4:33 PM me: the undergorund city was also great but perhaps more bearable for the less lanky Baker bro?

7 minutes
4:40 PM Tommy: Was ınterestıng to hear of the 10 000 Chrıstıans who would pıle ınto these gıant antnests to avoıd beıng skewered and splayed by the Arabs who marched through Cappadoccıa to try and capture Istanbul for the prophet Mohummad. If nothıng else theır back-breakıng, knee-scrapıng toıl provıded us wıth an hour of wonder and ıntrıgue. How long do you thınk you could spend baıled up ın a 50m deep hole, sardıned-tınned ´tween 10 000 chrıstıans wıth nothıng to eat but wıne and bread?
4:41 PM me: 15 mins with a tour group was enough
and we had electricity
Cappadoccia, ancient castle in background
4:42 PM we could talk about Cappadoccia forever
but perhaps we should touch on Istanbul?
I dig it
U?
4:46 PM Tommy: I dıg seacats down by the Marmara Sea. And they dıg us perhaps twıce as much when we Robın-Hood-on-down-there wıth a kılo of kıppers to feed theır frıendly lıttle faces. Mumma cat´s performance was movıng. She wouldn’t have a kıpper for herself. Let her lıttle crıtters eat the whole lot. But there were many more felıne companıons to save than just our famıly of choıce. Mum, famıly welfare ıs ın the blood.
4:47 PM me: we have indeed gained celebrity status amongst the many cats of Istanbul
4:48 PM outside of the animals, it has been stupendous to roam the city, meet locals and tourists alike, sift about in the Grand Bazaar and suck on sheeshas while gulping down Efes in the many, many bars and cafes.
4:49 PM the mosques are remarkable and the city is currently in Ramadaan mode. So there are a few tired folk about and at dusk the queues for food stretch for miles
4:50 PM (exagerration)
its hard to comprehend beign in a city of 15 million
perhaps that is the word for this adveture
uncomprehendable
4:51 PM is it a word?
Tommy: Incomprehensıble
Comprehend that
4:53 PM me: incomprehensible ya reckon?
ok
so be it
Our tribute to the felines of Istanbul

Our tribute to the felines of Istanbul

Written by JJ

September 21, 2008 at 2:07 pm

Posted in Uncategorized

one big holiday

with one comment

Not as big as it was going to be, turns out. Poor planning and blowing a big dirty hole in the starboard of my budget while in the US means I’ve gotta head home a little earlier. Major :( but hell, it ain’t the end of the world. Let those fellas in Scotland take care of that. I’ll be back for Germany, but not going to get there this time round. I still have a couple of weeks in Turkey ahead of me with a child who is now going by the title of Sarspy, would’ve been really cut if I missed out on that. In London now and laying low in a Australian half way house in Manor House recovering from a major spiced rum session in the van out front and a pint or three in Camden last night. Have bobbed around town and it’s been predictably wet and gray(got me all missing Melbourne) and I dig the feel of the joint but sure woulda liked to see more. Again, next time. Tomorrow I go to Leeds which I’m really looking forward to, seeing an old, old mate and getting a tour of the town and possibly York. Also seeing Jason Molina which I’ve been looking forward to for some time.

Back in Boston I experienced perhaps the best concert I’ve ever seen. My Morning Jacket, ladies and gentlemen. Favourite band on the planet? Let’s start dealing in definites and give it  a resounding YES. Beneath a big old corporately sponsored tent on a night that was lashed by the tail of a nearby hurricane, these boys from Tennesse utterly blew me away with the mother of all rock n roll shows. Force 5+ variety. The opening pairing of Mahgeeta and Anytime was as spectacular opening salvo, and from there it was consistently astounding. Golden was perfectly beautiful, Gideon revelatory, Touch Me I’m Going to Scream Pt 2 an exhilarating psychedelic epic…pretty much every song was a glorious aural and visual assault, save for a dud or two from the new album. Jim James’ voice is an instrument like no other. He is armed with magical, totally unique pipes, even more affecting live. He’s also a lot more energetic than I anticipated, bounding around the stage with his flying V guitar and dancing about in his big black cape. Dondante from Z was perhaps the best piece, drawn out to a 15 minute plus devastating odyssey. It closed up with One Big Holiday and I thought, how apt. Absolute hysteria resonated under the big white ceiling and we gleefully went out into the torrential rain, like the weather was trying to reassert itself, to prove itself over the howling tour de force My Morning Jacket had just produced. It gave it good shake, but I ain’t never seen no storm like what went down under that tent that night.

Besides this memorable event, I found Boston rather boring. The next night I caught Ryan Adams which was also good but after MMJ it was like a rather bland dessert. Not unlike Boston itself. Pretty and alluring, sure, but left me unsatisfied. I was happy to leave it and all those grating American accents behind and head across the Atlantic. The USA was an amazing experience, New York and the concerts the obvious high points. The food was the lowest. 90% of what I ate was disgusting, 5% inedible and the rest just OK. And of course the beer is shite.  Hopefully I’ll get to check out some of the centre and the south next time round. There will be a next time.

Written by JJ

September 11, 2008 at 6:02 pm

Posted in music, travel

strung out in the chelsea night

with 4 comments

New York City. It’s a helluva town.

Central Park

Central Park

DO: Hurry Up, breathe through your mouth, get a decent street guide, tip

DON’T: Slow down, breathe through your nose, expect to be able to save money

RECOMMENDED: Manhattan City Inn, Chelsea for cramped but well located accomodation; The Zipper Club for a wild beer range(including Coopers Pale Ale!!) and top notch bartending; The Ear Inn for an ancient NYC pub and surly Irish/New Yorker bartender; Hells Kitchen Flea Market for nicknacks and vintage clothing; The Living Room and Rockwood Music Hall for great free music 7 nights a week; the Cake Shop on Ludlow St for cake and records upstairs and booze and bands in the cavernous downstairs; Exploring Central Parkand it’s wonderful zoo; Skylight Diner for good food, bad coffee and an authentic New York experience; Jim Hanley’s Universe for comics; Union Square for farmers markets and watching the age old battle between pigeon and squirrel; watching the US Open while drinking cheap smuggled in vodka @ Madison Square Park; The annual Brazil Festival on 6th Ave; Lit on 2nd Ave for late night sloppiness and decent music; pretty much all of the East Village for pretty much everything; Bleecker St Records and Gemneration Records for music; SoHo for shopping utopia; watching tough street basketball at the corner of W 4th and 6th Avenue; just getting your New York on in general.

AVOID: Public phone booths(urinals), Greenwich Village Diner, Jimmy’s BBQ on W 31st, Sway Club, going to Times Square more than once.

I figure this is that’s the best way to surmise my New York experience. It was a stinky and spectacular, exhausitng and exhilirating, opulent and offensive, hot and hotter, noisy, noisy, noisy, crowded, ctowded, crowded, and not for a millisecond boring. Not even on the subway. My favourite moments were had around the happening East Village, particularly on Ludlow Street were there’s a string of great little bars. My favourites were the multifunctuional Cake Shop and the Living Room where I saw some cool bands and the people were nice and casual, not infected with the dibillitating wave of pretensious hipsterdom that plagues much of the cities youth. I was fortunate enough to get put onto these places by an Australian bartender at the excelllent Zipper Club on W 37th St. Met him on the first night and ducked in now and again for a Coopers and a kindly word of advice. Very handy to have a knowlegeable local and absolutely vital to have a comprehensive city guide book. Met some real nice people from all over the globe at the hostel and sucked down many a bad can of Bud up on the excellent rooftop there.

Anyways I wasn’t going to elaborate too much, was I? Not enough hours in the day let alone time on this crappy hostel computer. So from the city that never sleeps to the city that closes up at 2am. I am now in Boston and it’s going OK. Boston Common is a beautiful park and the Charles River is nice to chill by, it’s still very hot. Wondered around yesterday and was struck by the lack of homelessness and racial diversity in comparison to LA, SF and NYC. In the city there were more Starbucks and Dunkin’ Donuts than black or hispanic folk.  It’s an interesting time to be in America with the election bearing down on the nation. I haven’t met a republican yet but not everyone is convinced by Mr Obama either. It’s a good converstaion starter at a bar, everyone has got an opinion which is encouraging. No sign of apathy. Had a good yarn on the subject with a chap at a great “dive bar” (Americanism) called Bukowskis last night then kicked on around a few inferior sporty type bars. All so…American. I’m right in college territory-everthing is white picket fence and everyone is very preppy. My outsider feeling was quite strong on the first day when I walked out of my hostel and straight into a torrent of Red Sox fans streaming out of nearby Fenway Park. Whoops.  Boston seems to be one of those big cities you live in if you don’t want to feel like you’re living in a big city. A total contrast to NYC.  Looking forward to My Morning Jacket and Ryan Adams this weekend and have been invited to college BBQ on Sunday. Will it be a “kegger”? We will see. A little worrying is the forecast for rain and heavy wind tomorrow night as I understand the venue for the gig is semi-outdoors. Hopefully she’ll be right *crosses fingers, toes*  

It’s off to London on Monday and seeing an old friend named Partial then to Leeds and another old mate named Bondy, will be good to see these blokes in new surrounds. So onwards I plow, trusting all is well with friends and family back home and with a little pang of sadness chest as I recount my time in New York…missing her already.

Up on the hostel roof, Chelsea

Up on the hostel roof, Chelsea

Written by JJ

September 5, 2008 at 6:02 pm

Posted in Uncategorized